Is Lyon, France the Most Livable City in Europe for Gay Retirees?

Is Lyon, France the Most Livable City in Europe for Gay Retirees? With Eric Way

In this episode, host Mark Goldstein sits down with Eric Way, a Tennessee-born engineer who arrived in Lyon, France, in 1989 as a university exchange student and never left. Now approaching his 38th year in the city, Eric lives downtown in a 19th-century apartment with his French architect husband and splits time between Lyon and a farmhouse they own in the French Alps. He brings a rare depth of perspective: nearly four decades as an American expat, a career in corporate diversity and inclusion, and a front-row seat to how Lyon has evolved as a livable, gay-friendly city.

This episode covers what it actually looks like to build a life in Lyon: the walkability, the world-ranked healthcare, the cost of living compared to Paris, the LGBTQ+ scene, the visa path, and the honest trade-offs.

What Is Lyon

Lyon is France's third-largest city, located in southeastern France at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers, a geographic feature that gives the city two riverfront parks and a distinctive linear layout. It sits roughly two hours south of Paris by high-speed train and serves as a hub for reaching the French Alps, the Beaujolais wine region, Burgundy, the Riviera, and even Barcelona. The historic center, known as the Presqu'île (the peninsula), is a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to the Renaissance and the Middle Ages. Lyon is widely considered the gastronomic capital of France.

Why Eric Chose Lyon

Eric arrived in 1989 on a one-year university exchange program and found something he did not expect: a city whose values matched his own. Coming from a fundamentalist Christian family in Tennessee and still in the process of coming out, he discovered in Lyon a culture of live-and-let-live tolerance that felt, in his words, freer than the United States. He stayed. A few years later, he met his husband. The rest, as he says, is history.

LGBTQ+ Life

Lyon has a visible but modest LGBTQ+ scene concentrated around the City Hall area on the Presqu'île. At the time of recording, there are two gay bars, a gay sauna, a sex club, and a bear bar reportedly opening within months. There is a city-sponsored LGBTQ+ center and an annual Pride march, though Eric notes that Lyon Pride has become more politically divided in recent years, with some organizers now refusing corporate participation. The broader city is deeply accepting. Eric and his husband have lived part-time in a 250-person Alpine village for years and describe being fully adopted by their elderly neighbors without a moment of discomfort. Among their friend group, gay and straight friendships naturally overlap, though, like many couples without children, their closest circle has become predominantly other gay couples over time.

Daily Life and Walkability

Eric's doctor is three blocks away. His pharmacy, organic grocery store, bank, bakery, butcher, and eye care are all within one to two blocks. Outdoor markets run on Wednesdays and Sundays in his neighborhood. The metro system is efficient and growing, with a tram network expanding even faster. A single ticket costs approximately 2.30 euros and covers one hour of travel. Monthly passes run around 100 euros. Seniors receive rail discounts starting at age 60, often allowing first-class travel at second-class prices.

Eric drives his older car into Lyon no more than 52 times per year under a city environmental permit system, which he now finds perfectly adequate since he is no longer working. Lyon's riverfront parks, pedestrian streets, and walkable neighborhoods make car ownership largely optional for daily life.