Coffee Woke Civilization

How a tiny seed changed the way we work, think, meet, and start the day

Bread gave civilization calories. Beans gave it protein. Olive oil gave it light. Coffee gave civilization somewhere to meet—and a reason to stay awake.

Coffee came late to Western civilization. The Greeks didn't have it. The Romans didn't have it. Even Galileo had to stay awake at night looking through his telescope without the help of an espresso machine. Historians no longer like the old idea of the “Dark Ages,” and for good reason. But I have my own definition: the Dark Ages were simply the time before Western civilization discovered coffee.

Coffee Started as a FruitFirst, coffee isn't really a bean. What we call the coffee bean is the seed of a fruit, often called a coffee cherry. Coffee plants originated in Africa, especially Ethiopia, where we get the wonderful legend of a goat herder named Kaldi. He supposedly noticed that his goats became unusually energetic after eating the red fruit from a coffee tree. The goats danced, Kaldi tried the fruit, and eventually the local monks discovered it helped them stay awake for evening prayers.

It's a great story, although there isn't much evidence that Kaldi actually existed. The history becomes more reliable by the 1400s, when we know people were drinking coffee in Yemen. From there, coffee traveled along trade routes through the Middle East and into the Ottoman Empire. Somewhere along the way, something important happened: coffee stopped being simply a drink and became a reason for people to gather.

Coffeehouses Woke People UpBy the 1500s, coffeehouses were appearing in the Ottoman world. People came to drink coffee, but they stayed to talk about business, politics, religion, news, and probably their neighbors. Coffee eventually moved west, and by the 1600s, coffeehouses were spreading across Europe. London's first coffeehouse is generally dated to 1652.

Some of these coffeehouses became known as “penny universities.” For the price of a cup of coffee, you could sit, listen, argue, and perhaps learn something. Coffee did not cause the Enlightenment, but it certainly provided a convenient place for people to discuss it. Unlike the tavern, the main drug being served made people more alert instead of less.

The Swedes Took Coffee SeriouslyThen there were the Swedes. After losing to Russia in 1709, King Charles XII of Sweden spent several years in Ottoman territory. While there, he and his companions developed quite an affection for coffee. When the Swedes eventually returned home, that affection came with them, and coffee became deeply rooted in Swedish culture.

Today, the Swedes have fika, which is much more than a coffee break. You stop what you are doing, sit down, usually have something to eat, and most importantly, talk to another person. In other words, coffee provides an excuse to stop working long enough to remember that there are other human beings around you.

That sounds remarkably familiar to me.

Coffee in Rainy AlaskaI grew up in Ketchikan, Alaska, one of the wettest cities in America. Some years, the rainfall can approach 200 inches, and this isn't always the lovely rain that gently falls outside while you read a book beside the fireplace. In Ketchikan, the rain sometimes blows sideways.

Many women of my mother's generation had moved to Alaska because their husbands brought them there. Their families might be thousands of miles away, winter days were short, and sometimes it seemed as though the rain would never stop. This was before SSRIs, but there was always coffee.