Joe Simpson: The Climber Who Crawled Out of a Crevasse With a Shattered Leg

In June 1985, British climbers Joe Simpson and Simon Yates completed the first ascent of the previously unclimbed West Face of Siula Grande in Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash. The summit marked a major achievement, but the descent became a fight for survival when Simpson fell high on the North Ridge and catastrophically fractured his right lower leg around the knee.

With no rescue team nearby and no realistic expectation of rapid outside help, Yates improvised a rope-lowering system and moved Simpson approximately 800 metres down the mountain. Then Simpson was lowered over an unseen ice cliff. Yates could not see or communicate with him, the rope remained under load, and Yates’s snow stance began to fail.

Yates cut the rope.

Simpson survived the fall into a crevasse. Alone beneath the glacier, severely injured and unable to climb back the way he had come, he lowered himself deeper into the ice in search of another route. After escaping onto the glacier, he spent days hopping, crawling, dragging himself, and crossing moraine toward base camp, where Yates and Richard Hawking believed he was dead.

This is the documented survival story behind Touching the Void: a chain of technical decisions, harsh terrain, endurance, narrow opportunities, and a rope-cutting choice that Simpson himself later defended.

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