A Taste of Mexico City In Memphis

In “A Taste of Mexico City In Memphis,” Gravy reporter Mackenzie Martin visits Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana, a Memphis restaurant run by a father and son duo: Jonathan and José “Pepe”Magallanes.

 

Every day at Las Tortugas starts the same way: at the markets. According to Pepe, he and Jonathan go daily to source the produce and proteins they need for the two locations. The idea is to replicate the kind of hyper-fresh cuisine that Pepe grew up eating in Mexico City taquerias and torterias as a kid in the 1940s and ‘50s. 

 

Another nod to Mexico City is the turtle-themed artwork on the walls. In Pepe’s neighborhood, El Pedregal, the bread was hollowed out more than usual for its torta sandwiches, so that it resembled the shell of a turtle. Pepe grew up calling sandwiches in Pedregal “tortugas,” which translates to turtle in Spanish. 

 

Today, you can taste the attention to flavor in the salsa, agua frescas, and delicious tacos and torta sandwiches chock-full of ripe avocado, fresh jalapeños, beans, queso fresco, al pastor, jumbo sea scallops, Gulf shrimp, filet mignon, and more.

 

Because of the premium ingredients, it’s hard to get out of Las Tortugas without spending at least $25, which is pricier than other Mexican restaurants in the area. But chef Pati Jinich says there’s a movement to redefine casual Mexican cuisine, which is often expected to be cheaper than casual Italian food, even if the dishes are made with similar high-quality ingredients. 

 

Be warned, though, alongside every sandwich come strong opinions.