Woodshop Life Podcast

← Woodshop Life Podcast12 Jun · 55 min

Fixing Boo Boos, Why Use Veneer?, Wood Movement and MORE!!!

Fixing Boo Boos, Why Use Veneer?, Wood Movement and MORE!!!12 Jun55 min

Brians Questions:

Hey guys, thanks for answering all of my questions in the past. I have something a little different this time. While cutting a mortise on the router table into a leg, I accidentally touched the outside of the leg to the router bit and did some damage. I happen to have the offcut and the grain is a perfect match (see photo). What would be your process to go about repairing this so it is near invisible? My thought was to use a wheel marking guage and chisels to remove a sliver of the leg. I have no idea how to cut a perfectly matching piece from the offcut to fit into that removed material. In order for the grain to match, the repair piece can't be oversized and would have to fit perfectly. This is on the outside of the leg and will be seen. Or is that a little unreasonable and would you not match the grain perfectly? Thanks, Jeff

Howdy fellas,Love the podcast, thanks for what you do.  For the sake of space and cleanliness, I've decided to get rid of my table saw.  It's an 80's era Delta Unisaw that runs great, but doesn't have any safety features and the dust collection is wanting.  Rather than upgrading, I plan to use my bandsaw + planer/jointer for ripping, tracksaw + MFT for cross cutting and router table for joinery.  The only thing I haven't quite figured out is cross cutting short pieces, anything <8 inches is too short for my MFT + track saw.  So far I use the bandsaw + shooting board if I have a lot to do, or handsaw + shooting board if it's a one off.  It works, but I feel like there's an easier way I'm just not seeing.  Y'all have talked before about workflows without table saws so I'm wondering what you would do.  And no, I don't have a miter saw.  Is it worth getting a small miter saw or contractor table saw just for short crosscuts?  Thanks again for your insights.-Bryan

Guys Questions:

You guys have the best woodworking podcast on the web, and I think you are fans of shellac like I am.   Just about any finish for me starts with a few layers of shellac.Every once in a while, I will notice a defect in the wood, like sanding scratch marks, under the shellac while applying it.So, of course I sand out the bad spot and apply a bit of shellac over the repair.But the act of sanding through the shellac to the wood has effected the surface.    The wood doesn't want to accept the shellac.I put coat after coat on the spot that I sanded, but its not building up.   Sometimes I sand the surface between coats and I can see the repair shellac